I went out surfing today for the sunset session here in Santa Teresa.. or technically Playa Carmen. I paddled out with my buddy Mike from North Carolina, and on my 3rd or 4th wave, I caught the ride of my life (so far).

Down the line.. lucked out, a loooong section, I just kept going, and going, no stress.. soooo mellow, I could see the wall of water next to me.. God, what a feeling. Nothing can compare to this. Not even windsurfing on a wave. You always have the sail. Here you are frozen in time.. nothing in your hands..  indescribable. Its the ultimate high.

More experienced surfers might not think much of a nice down the line head high ride. But this is the first time I score one of these, and on my new shortboard to boot. I had been struggling so much trying to get used to the small board. Yesterday I got killed so many times on the wave. Hit the bottom twice, almost slashed my right arm with the fin.. its still sore. Put a crack on the board.. I provided the entertainment for my friends. And today, the ocean let me have a taste of the good stuff.. *just* enough to keep me hooked.. enough to keep working hard for that next ride... and then the next one.. and then the next one....

After that ride, I paddled out, and didn't quite get lucky again.. that's ok. Windsurfing has taught me that's how progress happens.. you nail a trick once, and then come out empty handed for days.. then another one.. maybe twice.. then nada for a while.. and then one day maybe 3.. and so on.. so I feel I am progressing. I was out there after that, sat on my board waiting for that next wave, watched another perfect sunset. I couldn't help but feel a deep gratitude.. not to an imaginary deity, but just happy to be alive, and to be here, and to be given the chances that I have been given, and to be healthy in one piece, and the opportunity to meet special people. I felt so blessed by life and everything. What a buzz.

Anyhow.. enough with the new age crap. As much fun as I am having here in Sta Teresa, it seems the time has come to pack up and keep moving. After all, this is only the second spot in my journey so far.. 3rd one if you count Playa Hermosa separately from Jacó.. and you should. So since my surfing friends are taking off, I will tag along with the Austrian gang, and my buddy Michael from Montreal, all the way down to Dominical. Later maybe Pavones. I guess you can't come to Costa Rica and not go to the most famous spot of them all right?.

Oh one last thought.. I am still a windsurfer. I miss freestyle.. but on the wave.. sorry guys.. surfing is where its at. The new challenge will be to find a place where I can do Freestyle windsurfing AND surf waves. Ideas welcome.

Aloha!