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Sh*t I am a surfer! Print E-mail
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Thursday, 26 February 2009 03:39

It actually happened yesterday, I walked to the beach to check out the surf, and the place looked unrecognizable. 15 knots blowing side on with shoulder to head high waves. My gut reaction was "F*ck!! stupid wind!".

What!?.. wait a second!.. only a month ago, upon the same sight, my heart would have jumped with glee. I'd have run to grab my wave board and rigged a 5.0. Instead, I walked back to the hammock to take a nap until the wind died and the surf cleaned up.

So, I thought.. sh*t, I really am a surfer now. LOL!

I am being a bit melodramatic, as usual though. Of course I am a windsurfer. You don't invest 5 years of your life, half your net worth in gear and travel, and countless personal sacrifices to train on something and then just throw it away!. I still dream of nailing the Flaka and beyond. In windsurfing, for me, freestyle is where its at.

In fact, I have started the mental process of hashing up a plan for my next windsurfing stint, sometime later this year. But now with another addiction to feed, as well as other trips to non ocean sports friendly destinations fueled by personal reasons, it sure is getting harder to fit in a 100% windsurfing lifestyle as I was so lucky to do in the past. Time and money are finite unfortunately.

Today was an awesome day. Dawn patrol surf session. Chill all day, sunset surf sesh, a bit chopped up but got a couple of backside rides, which given how crowded it was, was more than I could ask for. Back in the hostel, good vibes and the energy flowing freely all around.

Yup, it was a damn good day.

Last Updated on Thursday, 26 February 2009 03:43
 
Dominical Print E-mail
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Friday, 20 February 2009 15:31

Just as I was getting really settled in and starting to get into a nice rhythm with the ocean in Santa Teresa, I bumped into Andy, who said the Austrian gang was taking off the next day to Dominical. Not being one to turn down the chance for a road trip in search of new surf spots, I jumped on the gravy train and next morning we started the long journey to the southern Pacific coast of Costa Rica.

 

The Austrian-Canadian surfing team.. except Michael who was behind the camera.

We set off on the bus to Paqueras, caught the ferry to Puntarenas, pretty much uneventfully. A little huffed and puffed with all the bags, boards and the sizzling sun, but we hopped on the bus to Quepos eventually without much trouble. Once in Quepos though, the last leg of the trip sure was one to write home about. We took the municipal bus, full with other surfers and their backpacks, boards, and all the locals, carrying with them all the raw humanity that the lack of affordable deodorant can expose under this hot weather.

The only thing missing were the chickens and the pigs, though it wouldn't surprise me if they were stuffed in the baggage compartment or tied to the roof ;-)

Dominical is a dope little town. A surfing village, with a nice hippie feel to it. Prices are a bit targeted towards the dollar earning crowd, and I would call it a bit of a step up from Sta Teresa/Malpaís. The wave though.. oops.. lets say its just a bit "heavier".

The first morning I woke up at 6AM eyeing the surf hungrily, but 2 minutes staring at the ocean convinced me the best thing to do would be to hop back in bed. It was near low tide, and the ocean was just dumping close outs after the other. The sound of the house coming down was enough to get my knees shaking, so I decided I'd brave it out later on higher tide and with the comfort of some buddies' company.

So, a bit after high tide, I went out and to make a long story short, I came out empty handed after some seriously gnarly wipeouts. I took it on the head so many times, went over the falls, did the entire rinse cycle a few other times. Its just a faster wave, and you have all of one second to take the drop, ride it as fast as you can and get the hell out before the world comes crashing on top of you. I am just not fast enough yet, so all I could do is take my punishment in stride, taking solace on the fact that at least I am getting stronger with every paddle of desperation.

I think all of us 9 surfers in our travelling gang unanimously decided to try "Dominicalito" today.. a short taxi ride away, as the name implies, should be a smaller more mellow version of the heavier and faster wave here. We'll see how that goes. Hope it works cause otherwise, I'll have to pack up tent and keep looking for spots. No way my board, or body will survive too many sessions like yesterday's. 

 

Last Updated on Saturday, 21 February 2009 01:18
 
2 Weeks and Counting Print E-mail
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Saturday, 14 February 2009 19:32

I have been meaning to post something for 2 weeks, and I just haven't had the time to sit down to write. I really need some type of time management seminar for the unemployed.

Lesson#1.. It's not a vacation.. It's a lifestyle. I shouldn't party everynight like the people who are down here just for a week vacation. That's a ticket to a liver transplant down the road. But once the vibe is right and you are in good (bad?) company, its damn near impossible to just say no.

So the last week I spent in Jacó beach. The plan was to go in, buy a surfboard there, and get out. The reputation of the place as nothing more than a busy commercial street full of surf shops and a wide sandy beach break, barely so so for surfing, which turns into a red light district by night is rightly deserved.. cause that's precisely what it is. But in its defense, it is a place where people meet, and weird things happen... and what is life about if not the experiences that will make the tales you will tell your grand kids one day...  when they grow up though .. *ahem*.

If you make it down to Costa Rica though, the place to surf if you are in Jacó is Playa Hermosa. A short cab ride away, its got a mile long beach with a consistent selection of uncrowded peaks. I got stung there twice by jelly fish, but nothing too serious. Just small ones. 

There is not much else there though.. so staying there might be a bit too much for anybody by the Ted Kaczyinski's amongst us. Since I decided then that Hermosa was not an option, I finally was able to extricate myself from Jacó, and together with some friends, we took a fun speed boat ride to Montezuma beach. It was nice to be back in Paradise. If only for a day.

I was a bit sad to leave Montezuma, but well.. some things are only meant to be short I guess. My buddy Michael and I took the bus route up to Playa Carmen, where I am at the moment sitting in between Malpais and Sta Teresa. I think I will be staying here a good chunk of my stay. Its just the right combination of surf, good small town, chill people with a good vibe all around. My kind of hole. I don't really see a need to continue the trek up north to other places, and its really high time to just focus on the water. After all, its what I came here for. So hard when the possibilities are endless.

Last Updated on Saturday, 14 February 2009 20:13
 
Beyond Rehabilitation Print E-mail
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Wednesday, 18 February 2009 02:19

I went out surfing today for the sunset session here in Santa Teresa.. or technically Playa Carmen. I paddled out with my buddy Mike from North Carolina, and on my 3rd or 4th wave, I caught the ride of my life (so far).

Down the line.. lucked out, a loooong section, I just kept going, and going, no stress.. soooo mellow, I could see the wall of water next to me.. God, what a feeling. Nothing can compare to this. Not even windsurfing on a wave. You always have the sail. Here you are frozen in time.. nothing in your hands..  indescribable. Its the ultimate high.

More experienced surfers might not think much of a nice down the line head high ride. But this is the first time I score one of these, and on my new shortboard to boot. I had been struggling so much trying to get used to the small board. Yesterday I got killed so many times on the wave. Hit the bottom twice, almost slashed my right arm with the fin.. its still sore. Put a crack on the board.. I provided the entertainment for my friends. And today, the ocean let me have a taste of the good stuff.. *just* enough to keep me hooked.. enough to keep working hard for that next ride... and then the next one.. and then the next one....

After that ride, I paddled out, and didn't quite get lucky again.. that's ok. Windsurfing has taught me that's how progress happens.. you nail a trick once, and then come out empty handed for days.. then another one.. maybe twice.. then nada for a while.. and then one day maybe 3.. and so on.. so I feel I am progressing. I was out there after that, sat on my board waiting for that next wave, watched another perfect sunset. I couldn't help but feel a deep gratitude.. not to an imaginary deity, but just happy to be alive, and to be here, and to be given the chances that I have been given, and to be healthy in one piece, and the opportunity to meet special people. I felt so blessed by life and everything. What a buzz.

 

Anyhow.. enough with the new age crap. As much fun as I am having here in Sta Teresa, it seems the time has come to pack up and keep moving. After all, this is only the second spot in my journey so far.. 3rd one if you count Playa Hermosa separately from Jacó.. and you should. So since my surfing friends are taking off, I will tag along with the Austrian gang, and my buddy Michael from Montreal, all the way down to Dominical. Later maybe Pavones. I guess you can't come to Costa Rica and not go to the most famous spot of them all right?.

Oh one last thought.. I am still a windsurfer. I miss freestyle.. but on the wave.. sorry guys.. surfing is where its at. The new challenge will be to find a place where I can do Freestyle windsurfing AND surf waves. Ideas welcome.

Aloha! 

 

Last Updated on Wednesday, 18 February 2009 02:21
 
Pura Vida? .. Pura Plata! Print E-mail
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Written by Administrator   
Wednesday, 04 February 2009 03:49

Ok, remember I said I was coming down here to see my friend here? .. well, look at what I found him doing, the little bastard!

Anyhow.. first impressions on Costa Rica. Its expensive. No two bones about it. In fact, many things are more expensive than Canada, or even Maui. Doesn't make sense. I mean, I am all for fair prices and Ticos have the right to a good lifestyle just as North Americans enjoy, etc, etc.. but the infrastructure is *still* at central american levels.. for north american prices. So somebody is pocketing the difference. 

And its not just the money. The whole local attitude has left me quite disenamored with the place. Everyone is very aggressively trying to sell you something, and you almost have no right to just say no, thanks. Yesterday's episode took the cake though. We got off a ferry only to find out that we had missed the connection bus to Montezuma. Of course there were a couple of taxis waiting to offer their services.. for a 100% premium from what the boat captain had said was a fair taxi fare. They made no efforts to conceal that the whole deal was about them knowing we needed the transport and that we had to take it or sit there for 3 hours for the next bus. 

All the tourists that were on that boat, 10 in total, banded together and we just said that no, it was too much, that we'd rather take the bus. I mean, it was a matter of principle since it was so obvious we were being gouged. The whole thing devolved into a tension between the two sides, us sitting on one side of the road, and them next to their cars on the other. At some point I even overheard them talking (I guess they thought the Canadian flag on my backpack precluded me from speaking Spanish ;-) , and it was really infuriating to hear them use derogatory terms towards the gringos and how they were going to get us for all we were worth and shaft unholy things up our .. anyhow. You get the point.

In the end we ended up hoping on a bus for about 4 kms to another place where we were able to secure a pickup truck where we rode on the bed .. quite fun ride actually. And honestly, we were happy to stick it to the taxi drivers who would probably have to wait till the next ferry for another batch of potential customers.

Anyhow, all this drama to give you an idea of what Costa Rica has been like for me. Perhaps its cause we have been following the tourist trail, and falling in all the usual tourist traps?.. but certainly the vibe has been quite different from Brazil for instance, where I felt that while the locals were working in the tourism industry, and nothing wrong with that, I never felt like I was being taken advantage of for the most part. Here.. they say Pura Vida.. I think they mean, Pura Plata!. 

Last Updated on Wednesday, 04 February 2009 22:35
 
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